Black Gobi

Monday 19th April. Yesterday we set out across the Black Gobi – one of the most feared legs of the Gobi crossing from Anxi to Hami – this section crosses the Gobi proper and it will be interesting to see how many of the oases have survived, as they were little more than water holes in the middle of the desert in the days of French and Cable. They referred to the Anxi-Hami leg as the Twelve Brackish Water stages, so we have stocked up with water containers to carry good water for the horses. Apparently mules and donkeys could drink it, but horses were often adversely affected.
We have so far been able to ride off road the whole time, often well away from the main road along earth tracks servicing the new electricity pylons that are being constructed across this part of the Gobi. Huge wind farms dominate the landscape.

Last night we reached Baidunzi, or White Tower, a little oasis with a long history including a Song dynasty general who was killed here by the Muslims. The Trio mention a clear spring of bad quality -the water has now been dammed back to form a couple of picturesque lakes below the old tower.

We had a different water source from a deep well in the courtyard of the small ‘hotel’ we happily found on arrival. We were assured that everyone drinks it, and certainly the horses have suffered no ill effects. The little blue building by the water pumps was our room for the night.

The Black Gobi is so called due to the black stones which cover the ground, and which in some places give the landscape an almost industrial slag heap look.

I have been concerned about encountering spring dust storms, but did not think we would be responsible for creating them. The Chinese are in the process of creating a new expressway G3 across the desert, and although it often provides a good fine earth surface to ride on, the strong wind today blew up enormous clouds of dust from under the horses’ feet.